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One of lime and one of sand for two other climbers in search of the Fourteen. The Korea Oh Eun-sun had to descend from the C3 of the north face of Annapurna, reports MountEverest.net. Bad weather forced it to lower the October 3 instead of rising to top as planned. The website of the Australian Andrew Lock on 4 published a brief message: "I did it! Climbing the main summit of Shisha Panga on October 2 at 5.05 PM. A hard climb of variant Inaki on the north face, caught in a storm during the descent with a bivouac in the open without a team to 7,600. We just got to base camp, exhausted. |
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Finally, the option provided by Lock to avoid the problems presented by the summit ridge of Shisha - "acornisada and treacherous, forced to retreat to the group of Juanito Oiarzabal few days earlier, which separates the main focus of the summit has given good result. [This is the variant that was invented in 2006 Iñaki Ochoa (who died in the Annapurna in 2008) to solve the main problem presented by the normal route of Shishapangma. It is a variant of "indirect to upload directly to the main summit," said Inaki to Drop then. He found snow conditions "poor to very poor, without actually having plates avalanche as it had in the normal way, and fairly deep snow. I was just decent in areas in which I was really stiff, 100 meters or so. The main advantage is to avoid crossing between central and main peak, is at or below the crest. Also, and no less, being more sheltered from the prevailing wind from the West "]. Lock did top with Neil Ward Welsh after 12 hours of climbing. Later, from the relative safety of ABC, at 5,600 m, described what had happened during the descent. "We realized we were in a serious situation. Entered clouds and hid the light of the moon. We just could not find the way back because our track was also covered by snow. We dug a ledge to sit for 10 or 11 hours in the snow, wind and cold with 20 to 30 degrees below zero. We had no tent, or any bag or backpack stove. Our great fear was to catch the wind and edema. It was the hardest night of my life and cold. If the weather had deteriorated a little more likely we would have stayed there. We were lucky to get off, "said Lock. |
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The Australian mountaineer of 47 years began in the eight thousand climbing K2 in 1993 with a small expedition which was also part of the late Anatoli Boukreev. In 2004 served as a camera and climber in Everest-Ultimate Survival miniseries produced by Discovery Channel. Alone has climbed three mountains (Lhotse, Broad Peak and Cho Oyu) and climbed Everest twice, both with oxygen. He also repeated on Cho Oyu and Shisha Pangma central summit, whose main peak has not escaped this year. Before leaving for the Shisha, Lock announced that, if successful, would celebrate ... returning to Nepal in March 2010 to attempt the Everest has already risen twice, "but this time alone, without oxygen" and the route of the North Ridge. |