Ahead of seven mountains, and an ambitious plan. In the autumn of this year, the Annapurna. And next year he will try to climb Manaslu, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak.In 2011, devoted to Dhaulagiri in spring and autumn for Shisha Pangma. And finally, if all goes well, in the spring of 2012, would climb Lhotse.

"Today I want to begin by the end ...
I think that it’s on my fingertips being the first to raise twice the fourteen eight ...
No one has done yet, and probably nobody would ever do. Climbing the summits of the fourteen highest mountains on earth, it is too difficult, too hard and too risky, so that none of the few climbers to have made it once was raised to climb again. 
But that is what motivates me.
When I first came to the summit of Cho Oyu in 1985, Messner and Kuckuzka fought to be the first to climb the fourteen. Then came the Gasherbrum II in 1987, after a period of not summit expeditions, arrived on Nanga Parbat in 92.
Meanwhile Loretan performed his original promotion in record time.

I became the sixth man to achieve this. A milestone that earned me recognition across the World of mountaineering. But no ending points...
The following year, unsuccessfully, tried to repeat the Everest without oxygen. And in 2001, finally got it. Then I was the fourth mountaineer to climb the world "fourteen eight" without oxygen.Nor was the final ...
I repeated on Cho Oyu, as if to remove the bug ... But then came the two Gasherbrun, then the fearsome K2, which was on the verge of losing my life. And where I got off at the expense of severe frostbite in both feet. I recognize that more than once would have been the end of my career.
But I also wanted to be different. I may not have been the most innovative or the most technical among the 'big eighters'. But nobody doubts that on my way, I want to be different. I do not retreat, and even less, I withdrew. At K2 followed by three hard years of rehabilitation, to get my feet turned into stumps, again making me feel climber. And after those difficult years, came the Makalu. And after the tremendous Kangchenjunga ...
I have by now twenty-three 8000. Nobody in the world has risen so many ...
And that is my tarjet...
I have seven of the fourteen. And among them four of the five largest. Everest, K2, Kangchenjunga and Makalu. I have left seven 8000, but above all I'm very enthusiastic.


Any climber of fifty-three years, which raised seven top 8000 in three or four years, we should advise him prudence and wisdom, we should tell him to engage in other things. But I have a great experience and still has an extraordinary capacity for acclimatization. To climb 8000 is what I like most in this life, with the permission of Araceli and my two children. And it is what I dedicate myself, and for which I am still forces ...

Seven mountains ahead, and an ambitious plan. In the autumn of this year, the Annapurna. And next year will try to climb Manaslu, Nanga Parbat and Broad Peak. In 2011, devoted to Dhaulagiri in spring and autumn for Shisha Pangma. And finally, if all goes well, in the spring of 2012, would climb Lhotse. Surely I'm not as strong as ten or fifteen years ago, and my feet are not the same. But I have much experience, more and better resources and specially want to climb mountains. Can not find the end of the film. But as someone once said "the important thing in life is neither the time nor the results. What matters is the struggle and courage faced with challenges. And I can say is that just as I repeat the challenge of fourteen, I will be for a long time who has climbed more 8000.This world so special and so different. Where it costs a lot to breathe and the horizon is deep blue and can not reach the clouds. This world formed for a few mountains, in wich not even the most bolder bird wants to flight over.