GIANT OF THE HIMALAYA
Urubko: New Route on Cho Oyu for 14th 8,000'er
With a new route - southeast face of - Cho Oyu, Urubko has finished the 14th .
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News Link: Kazakh climber Denis Urubko has summited 8,201-meter Cho Oyu by an alpine-style ascent of the difficult southeast face, a stylish finish to his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks. The 2,800-meter face was first climbed in 1978 by an Austrian team; in 1985 a Polish expedition completed a winter ascent of Cho Oyu by a remarkable climb up the southeast pillar. Urubko and partner Boris Dedeshko climbed a new line to the left of the Polish pillar. The two spent more than a week on the climb and descent, including sitting out a storm at 7,600 meters. They descended by the ascent route, taking three days, the last two without food. Earlier this year, Urubko completed the first winter ascent of 8,462-meter Makalu in Nepal with Simone Moro. Date of Ascent: May 2009
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The 2,800-meter-high (9,200-foot) southeast face of 8,201-meter Cho Oyu, on the Nepal-Tibet border. The red line marks Urubko's planned route on Cho Oyu; he and his partner deviated "not so much" from this planned line in the final 600 meters. Green line in center: the Polish route from the winter of 1985; green line at right: the Austrian route from 1978. Photo by Simone Moro, courtesy of Russianclimb.com
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Denis Urubko, with 35 years old, is the 15th climber that gets the 14th 8000's. All of them without oxygen.
The 14 of Urubko
|
Mountain |
High |
Year |
Route |
| Everest | 8.848 | 2000 | Normal - South Face |
| Lhotse | 8.516 | 2001 | Normal |
| Gasherbrum 1 | 8.068 | 2001 | Normal (Japanese Couloir) |
| Gasherbrum 2 | 8.035 | 2001 | Normal, 7h 30m from 5.800 to summit |
| Kangchenjunga | 8.586 | 2002 | Normal, SW Face |
| Shisha Pangma | 8.046 | 2002 | Normal - main and central summit (secondary) |
| Nanga Parbat | 8.125 | 2003 | Normal Kinshoffer |
| Broad Peak | 8.046 | 2003 | Normal |
| Annapurna | 8.091 | 2004 | Normal, night ascent |
| Broad Peak | 8.046 | 2005 | SW Face, new route, alpine style (with S. Samoilov) |
| Manaslu | 8.163 | 2006 | Normal |
| Dhaulagiri | 8.167 | 2007 | Normal |
| Manaslu | 8.163 | 2006 | NE Face, new route, alpine style (with Samoilov) |
| K2 | 8.611 | 2007 | NW (with Samoilov) |
| Makalu | 8.463 | 2008 | Normal |
| Makalu | 8.463 | 2009 | Normal, 1st winter ascent (with S. Moro) |
| Cho Oyu | 8.201 | 2009 | SE Face, new route (with B. Dedeshko) |
The 14 climbers
|
CLIMBER |
COUNTRY |
YEAR |
OXYGEN |
| Reinhold Messner | Italy | 1986 | NO |
| Jerzy Kukuzka | Poland | 1987 | YES - Open a new route in Everest (south mainstay) |
| Erhard Lorétan | Switzerland | 1995 | NO |
| Carlos Carsolio | Mexico | 1996 | YES |
| Krzysztof Wielicki | Poland | 1996 | YES Everest, first winter ascent. |
| Juan Oiarzabal | Spain | 1999 | YES |
| 2001 | NO | ||
| Sergio Martini | Italy | 2000 | YES |
| Park Young-Seok | Korea | 2001 | YES |
| Um Hong-Gil | Korea | 2001 | YES |
| Alberto Iñurrategi | Spain | 2002 | NO |
| Edmund Viesturs | USA | 2005 | NO |
| Silvio Mondinelli | Italy | 2007 | NO |
| Iván Vallejo | Ecuador | 2008 | NO |
| Denis Urubko | Kazakhstan | 2009 | NO |