Popular Links

Urubko - 14th 8000

 

GIANT OF THE HIMALAYA
Urubko: New Route on Cho Oyu for 14th 8,000'er

With a new route - southeast face of - Cho Oyu, Urubko has finished the 14th .

News Link: Kazakh climber Denis Urubko has summited 8,201-meter Cho Oyu by an alpine-style ascent of the difficult southeast face, a stylish finish to his quest to climb all 14 8,000-meter peaks. The 2,800-meter face was first climbed in 1978 by an Austrian team; in 1985 a Polish expedition completed a winter ascent of Cho Oyu by a remarkable climb up the southeast pillar.

Urubko and partner Boris Dedeshko climbed a new line to the left of the Polish pillar. The two spent more than a week on the climb and descent, including sitting out a storm at 7,600 meters. They descended by the ascent route, taking three days, the last two without food.

Earlier this year, Urubko completed the first winter ascent of 8,462-meter Makalu in Nepal with Simone Moro. 

Date of Ascent: May 2009 

 

 

The 2,800-meter-high (9,200-foot) southeast face of 8,201-meter Cho Oyu, on the Nepal-Tibet border. The red line marks Urubko's planned route on Cho Oyu; he and his partner deviated "not so much" from this planned line in the final 600 meters. Green line in center: the Polish route from the winter of 1985; green line at right: the Austrian route from 1978. Photo by Simone Moro, courtesy of Russianclimb.com

 

 

Denis Urubko, with 35 years old, is the 15th climber that gets the 14th 8000's. All of them without oxygen.

The 14 of Urubko

Mountain
High
Year
Route
       
Everest 8.848 2000 Normal - South Face
Lhotse 8.516 2001 Normal
Gasherbrum 1 8.068 2001 Normal (Japanese Couloir)
Gasherbrum 2 8.035 2001 Normal, 7h 30m from 5.800 to summit
Kangchenjunga 8.586 2002 Normal, SW Face
Shisha Pangma 8.046 2002 Normal - main and central summit (secondary)
Nanga Parbat 8.125 2003 Normal Kinshoffer
Broad Peak 8.046 2003 Normal
Annapurna 8.091 2004 Normal, night ascent
Broad Peak 8.046 2005 SW Face, new route, alpine style (with S. Samoilov)
Manaslu 8.163 2006 Normal
Dhaulagiri 8.167 2007 Normal
Manaslu 8.163 2006 NE Face, new route, alpine style (with Samoilov)
K2 8.611 2007 NW (with Samoilov)
Makalu 8.463 2008 Normal
Makalu 8.463 2009 Normal, 1st winter ascent (with S. Moro)
Cho Oyu 8.201 2009 SE Face, new route (with B. Dedeshko)


The 14 climbers

CLIMBER
COUNTRY
YEAR
OXYGEN
Reinhold Messner  Italy 1986 NO
Jerzy Kukuzka Poland 1987 YES - Open a new route in Everest (south mainstay)
Erhard Lorétan Switzerland 1995 NO
Carlos Carsolio Mexico 1996 YES
Krzysztof Wielicki Poland 1996 YES Everest, first winter ascent.
Juan Oiarzabal Spain 1999 YES
2001 NO
Sergio Martini Italy 2000 YES
Park Young-Seok Korea 2001 YES
Um Hong-Gil Korea 2001 YES
Alberto Iñurrategi Spain 2002 NO
Edmund Viesturs USA 2005 NO
Silvio Mondinelli Italy 2007 NO
Iván Vallejo Ecuador 2008 NO
Denis Urubko Kazakhstan 2009 NO

Ades Movistar Gore-Tex ansilta CEBÉALCOPierobonAAAVyTACONCAGUA TREK SRL by ACONCAGUA TREK SRL by Acontravel EVT Leg.13910 Exp-STN. 94/08
Rudy Parra - Heber Orona & Asociados
Las Heras 649-651 Mendoza - Argentina
Tel/fax (+ 54 261) - 429 2650 / 429 5007 E-mail: info@aconcaguatrek.com